Ah, Paris Fashion Week. Considered the pinnacle of Fashion Month, fashion week in Paris has a reputation for delivering glamour and innovation alike. The streetwear trend all but dominated the scene in New York, London, Milan, and Paris. Street style is supposed to be casual, but these Parisian collections are truly trendy enough for a scene-stealing starlet.
“Casual” and “scene-stealing” might not seem like they belong in the same sentence. However, this Longchamp collection proves otherwise. This is about structure, efficiency, and casual luxury.; it’s for the organized, stylish, model off duty.
9. Alexis Mabille
Wearing a long shirt, tall boots, and no pants hit the mainstream in 2016. It didn’t take long for this trend to grow legs (no pun intended), and now the fashion industry has given it a name. Don’t get me wrong, people have been lampshading for years – but now it seems like every designer is here to grab a piece of the pie.
Alexis Mabille showed off her dedication to lampshading in this Fall/Winter collection, rooting it in two trends that have been tried, tested, and true. With the upcoming release of the live action Beauty and the Beast movie, that shimmery gold ballgown reminds me only of Belle. The slouchy blue dresses and psudeo French maid outfit also lend hints towards the Disney classic. Metallic shoes are also proving to have some longevity in the fashion industry, and this is the first time I’m seeing metallic boots on the lampshade template.
No pants? No worries. The trend continued at A.P.C. with denim playing an interesting role. Sure, denim makes a great pant, but this designer is more interested in experimenting with the versatile fabric. Turns out, it makes for great staples and accent pieces alike.
I’m a girl who loves denim, and I love seeing it reworked in so many different ways. This collection by Y/Project exhibits complete mastery over the denim trend and the shoe game. According to my calculations, we’ll be seeing those thigh-high boots courtside within a month.
6. Alexandre Vauthier
More and more designers are opting out of a traditional runway showcase in favor of a lookbook presentation. I don’t know whether I was more surprised to see Alexandre Vauthier opt out of a runway show, or to see Bella Hadid slay this editorial like a complete pro. Whether you love her for her tenacity or you hate her for her facial reconstruction, Bella is one of the most in-demand models of the year. Lookbooks provide an opportunity for the designer to show specific details within the collection, but they require a skilled editorial model to do the job of a dozen or more runway models. Pulling this off without boring your audience is one thing, but changing a Bella-indifferent into a Bella-stan? Props to Vauthier on this one.
Rodarte are ahead of the Instagram curve and above political low blows. At the heart of this collection are the complexities of mortality. To lighten it up a little – the designers at Rodarte were inspired by the 1950s novel Charlotte’s Web. For those of you who haven’t read the book, it is a heartwarming childrens’ classic about a barnyard friendship between a spider and a pig. The pig learns he is destined for slaughter, and the spider designs increasingly complex webs in order to distract the humans from carrying out his fate. The spider saves the pig, births a new generation of spiders, and dies. Heartwarming.
Metaphorically speaking, this collection is made up of spiders and pigs. The black, lacy garments represent fate, and the pale pink pieces represent hope. Although the spider dies at the end of the novel, her children live on to make friends with the pig. Our fates may be inevitable, but our memories can live on.
If my mom were to review this collection, she would say “are you sure those cover enough? They look like they’re about to fall off.” Although this collection might not illicit much concern from millennials, these clothes certainly look a little more temporary than what you might pick up at the mall. This, however, is for a reason; none of us are anything but temporary, so why shouldn’t our clothes be?
This type of presentation is becoming more and more popular; it exists in that liminal space between a fashion show and a photo shoot. The usual editors and writers are still invited to interrogate the designer, but they get to see the clothes in a very up-close, personal setting. It’s not a fashion show, it’s not a photo shoot; the model exists only in situ. Carven delivered one of the best in situ lookbooks of the season. These designers are tapped into all kinds of trends, from celebrity street style to the feeds of Instagram micro-bloggers. However, this collection still feels timeless.
3. Juan Carlos Obando
Natural light? GASP! Why invite seagulls to interrupt your own showcase? The reason this Juan Carlos Obando collection places so high on the list is because more designers should be doing just that. These clothes speak for themselves. As most designers shy away from evening wear, Juan Carlos Obando embraces the world of lingerie slips and luxury gowns.
The long, billowing fabric in deep jewel shades and pastels alike barely allow gorgeous suede boots to peek out and – what’s this? – nearly every look here is some variation of a lampshade. In case you haven’t noticed, I’m obsessed with lampshading, and I was quite pleasantly surprised at the amount of designers that incorporated this silhouette into their collections. The only reason this collection didn’t place higher on my list is because we’ve still got two heavy-hitters yet to come.
2. Barbara Bui
Barbara Bui is rebranding. The fashion industry is changing, and designers must adapt to the times. In a market that is oversaturated with street style, launching a streetwear collection has become a bold choice again. Just when it seems like it’s all been done before, Barbara Bui shows us she’s a force to be reckoned with. These unique designs are seriously eye catching, and oh-so Instagram worthy.
My absolute favourite ready-to-wear collection of Paris Fashion Week was Back. This reminds me of a junior high school dance, a nightmare about forgetting to wear pants, and my street style goals for 2017 all at the same time. And I thought couture was supposed to make women dream.
This style of photography is called lo-fi, and my favourite musical genre borrows the same name. Opting out of HD photography allows the audience to fill in those fuzzy pixels with their own imaginations. This collection takes modern street essentials and distorts them into something familiar, yet unfamiliar. This collection takes elements of things we’ve seen before, and translates them into modernity.